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Ch 13 - Movements of Ocean Water11th Fundamentals of Physical Geography
Classification of Ocean Movements
How are waves, currents, and tides scientifically classified based on their primary direction of motion?
How are waves, currents, and tides scientifically classified based on their primary direction of motion?
DISTINCTION
Horizontal vs. Vertical Movements
- Horizontal Motion:
- Ocean Currents: The continuous flow of massive volumes of water in a definite, sustained direction.
- Waves: The horizontal motion of kinetic energy across the surface (while water particles themselves oscillate locally).
- Vertical Motion:
- Tides: The periodic, vertical rise and fall of global water levels driven by celestial gravitational attraction.
- Upwelling/Sinking: The vertical movement of subsurface water rising to the surface, and vice-versa.
Prism Memory Hook
Waves and Currents cross the sea; Tides and Upwells move vertically.
The Physics of Waves
When a wave moves across the ocean surface, is the water itself physically traveling across the ocean?
When a wave moves across the ocean surface, is the water itself physically traveling across the ocean?
CONCEPT
Energy, Not Matter
- Energy Transport: Waves are fundamentally the transmission of energy across the ocean surface, not the mass transport of water.
- Particle Motion: As a wave passes, the actual water molecules travel in a small circular orbit, returning almost exactly to their original starting position.
- Energy Source: The kinetic energy is predominantly provided by wind. Friction between the moving air and the water surface generates the wave.
Prism Memory Hook
Waves transport Energy, not Matter.
Anatomy of a Wave
Define the four fundamental structural components of a wave: Crest, Trough, Wave Height, and Amplitude.
Define the four fundamental structural components of a wave: Crest, Trough, Wave Height, and Amplitude.
DEFINITION
Wave Anatomy Definitions
- Crest: The absolute highest vertical point of a wave.
- Trough: The absolute lowest vertical point of a wave.
- Wave Height: The total vertical distance measured strictly from the bottom of the trough to the top of the crest.
- Wave Amplitude: Mathematically one-half of the wave height, representing the displacement from the resting sea level.
Prism Memory Hook
Crest is Crown, Trough is Toe, Height is Total, Amplitude is Half.
Also in this chapter
64 more cards to study in Prism
- 4Wave Measurements: Time and Space
- 5Wave Speed vs. Particle Speed
- 6Determinants of Wave Size
- 7Wave Shape as an Indicator of Origin
- 8Sea Waves vs. Ocean Swells
- 9The Wave Breaking Mechanism
- 10Differentiating Tides and Storm Surges
- 11Primary Forces Generating Tides
- 12The Mechanics of Tidal Bulges
- 13Tidal Classification by Frequency
- 14Magnitudes: Spring Tides vs. Neap Tides
- 15Lunar Orbit Variations: Perigee and Apogee
- 16Extreme Tides: The Perigean Spring Tide
- 17Solar Orbit Variations: Perihelion vs. Aphelion
- 18The Tidal Time Lag
- 19Transitional Tidal Phases: Ebb and Flow
- 20Tidal Currents
- 21The Tidal Bore Phenomenon
- 22Geographical Extremes: The Highest Tides
- 23Ecological and Economic Importance of Tides
- 24Tidal Energy Harnessing in India
- 25Major Tidal Ports of India
- 26Ocean Currents
- 27Hydrodynamic Terminology: Drift vs. Stream
- 28Primary Generating Forces
- 29The Equatorial Gradient
- 30Coriolis Deflection of Currents
- 31Oceanic Gyres
- 32Secondary Modifying Forces
- 33Thermohaline Circulation
- 34Currents and Isohalines
- 35Volumetric Distribution of Currents
- 36Velocity Metrics: Surface vs. Deep
- 37Thermal Classification of Currents
- 38The Desiccating Effect of Cold Currents
- 39Economic Geography: Mixing Zones
- 40Vertical Upwelling and Marine Ecosystems
- 41Maritime Navigation and Ocean Currents
- 42Equatorial Counter Currents
- 43Mapping the North Atlantic Gyre
- 44The Gulf Stream
- 45The Antilles Current
- 46Climatic Anomalies: Norway vs. Labrador
- 47The Irminger Current
- 48The Labrador Current
- 49The Canary Current
- 50The Sargasso Sea
- 51The AMOC Climate Conveyor
- 52The Falkland Current
- 53The Kuroshio Current
- 54The Tsushima Current
- 55The Oyashio Current
- 56The North Pacific Drift
- 57The Alaska Current
- 58The California Current
- 59The Peru (Humboldt) Current
- 60The El Niño Phenomenon
- 61The East Australian Current
- 62The Indian Ocean Monsoon Reversal
- 63The Somali Current
- 64The Agulhas Current
- 65The Mozambique Current
- 66The West Australian Current
- 67The West Wind Drift
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